Best SLR cameras with price under 1,500 euros

We review the best SLR cameras with price under 1,500 euros. With one of these SLR cameras, you will take photos like a pro.

Smaller cameras and cell phones quickly reach their limits for amateur photographers. It makes sense to buy a DSLR or a mirrorless system camera (DSLM). As a rule, they not only have a much better image quality, but also offer better opportunities to let your creativity run free: more manual settings, interchangeable lenses and RAW photos that can be polished up nicely in post-processing. The Fujifilm X-T3 is at the forefront. For just under 1,500 euros, you not only get an impressive picture quality here, but also a fast auto focus and strong video features. But it is also cheaper. We tested over 73 SLR cameras in our test lab, and the last time the results were updated in February 2020.

These are the best DSLRs & DSLMs in the test

For our extensive buying advice, we looked at the top models of the past few years. In the article, we present six cameras – the best DSLRs and DSLMs up to sensor size APS-C for less than 1,500 euros – from different manufacturers, for whom we can recommend the purchase. Our selection and evaluation is based on the test results of our test center and our editorial staff’s own assessment.

We will then explain our test procedure and how much you should spend on a good camera. We also explain the difference between DSLR and DSLM, which cameras are suitable for beginners and what accessories you need. Last but not least, we clarify the most important questions about SLR cameras and mirrorless system cameras.


1.Fujifilm X-T3approx. 1,500 euros
2.Panasonic Lumix DC-G9approx. 1,100 euros
3.Nikon D7500approx. 900 euros
4.Canon EOS 90D approx. 800 euros
5. Panasonic Lumix DMC GX-80 approx. 1,000 euros
6.Nikon Z6approx. 1,500 euros

1. Fujifilm X-T3: the best mirrorless system camera (DSLM)

Price: approx. 1,232 euros


  • Top image quality
  • Strong low-light performance
  • Rapid auto focus


  • High price
  • No image stabilizer
  • Crop for continuous shooting and 4K video

The Fujifilm X-T3 is the frontrunner in mirrorless system cameras. It can convince not only in terms of image quality and a proud 26 megapixels, but also with its impressive speed: thanks to its rapid auto focus and up to 30 frames per second, the X-T3 is particularly suitable, but not only for sports and action shots.

Thanks to the relatively large APS-C sensor, pictures can also be taken in poor lighting conditions. While noise quickly appears in low-cost cameras and the image appears blurry and grainy, the X-T3 still succeeds in detailed images even at ISO values ​​of 12,800. In addition, there are countless lenses for Fuji’s X bayonet – from the bright portrait lens to the travel zoom. There are also extensive video features:

  • 4K at 60 frames per second – Full HD at 120 frames per second
  • Microphone input
  • Connection for headphones
  • HDMI output

All of this makes the X-T3 a film camera of almost professional level. There will be a few points deduction. On the one hand, there is no image stabilizer – it is only available in the lens if it supports stabilization. An image stabilizer is indispensable, especially when filming or taking photos from your hand. The X-T3 also supports 4K video and fast continuous shooting, but only with crop. This effectively extends the focal length – the image is cropped at the edge.

Also the relatively high price of 1500 euros – without a lens – may deter beginners. Everyone else gets a camera with the X-T3 that can convince in all situations.

2. Panasonic Lumix DC-G9: an all-round camera

First-class picture quality, extreme speed and a high-quality housing make the DC-G9 a solid all-round camerar.

Price: approx. 1,089 euros

Panasonic Lumix DC-G9


  • Strong picture quality
  • Extensive video features
  • Second card compartment


  • “Only” MFT sensor
  • Relatively high image noise from ISO 6.400
  • Quite unwieldy

If you want to forego costs, but not image quality, you will find a top DSLM in the Panasonic Lumix DC-G9. For the price of around 1,100 euros, photographers can get an MFT camera with very extensive features.

Although the sensor of the G9 is “only” in Micro Four Thirds format, a little smaller than APS-C, it is stabilized. This is particularly pleasing to videographers – and they definitely don’t miss out on the G9. 4K at 60 frames per second, headphone and micro connection are also included.

The Panasonic Lumix DC-G9 also has two SD card slots. That doesn’t sound particularly spectacular at first, but it’s a must, especially in professional photography. On the one hand, a second SD card can be used as a reserve if the first is full, and on the other – and much more sensible – as a copy. Because nothing is more annoying than lost souvenir photos.

The Panasonic Lumix DC-G9 only shows real weaknesses in picture noise. Already at ISO 6.400, interference pixels can be seen here. So if you have a slightly smaller budget and do not place too much emphasis on a compact design, the Panasonic Lumix DC-G9 is ideal for you.

3. Sony Alpha 6400: the flyweight on the go

Compact APS-C camera with extensive film and photo features.

Price: approx. 917 euros


  • Large image sensor (APS-C)
  • Light construction
  • Large selection of lenses


  • No image stabilizer
  • No headphone jack
  • Confusing menu navigation

Sony is one of the leading manufacturers of mirrorless system cameras in the photo community. Therefore, the Sony Alpha 6400 should not be missing in our buying advice. Sony manages to install a relatively large APS-C sensor in a compact housing for its mirrorless: Because at just over 400 grams, the Alpha is a real flyweight and the ideal camera for on the go.

There is also a very large selection of lenses for the Sony e-bayonet to be prepared for every conceivable photo situation. Lenses should have the designation OSS. Optical Steady Shot indicates that the lens has image stabilization – it is not built into the Alpha sensor. Thanks to the display that can be swiveled by 180 degrees, selfie fans or video bloggers will also get their money’s worth. As is typical for Sony, the menu is extensive, but confusing. Especially beginners will quickly be overwhelmed by it.

For just under 900 euros – housing only – photographers can get a practical and compact all-rounder that, once they have struggled through the enormous range of functions, can keep up with larger models.

4. Nikon D7500: single lens reflex camera (DSLR) for outdoor photographers

Strong image quality, lavish equipment and brisk work speed leave little room for criticism of the D7500.

Price: approx. 1,749 euros


  • Very good picture quality
  • Huge selection of lenses
  • Robust construction


  • Quite unwieldy compared to DSLMs
  • Slow auto-focus in live view
  • No optical stabilizer

In contrast to the cameras presented so far, the Nikon D7500 is a DSLR – a good old SLR camera. In contrast to the newer mirrorless system cameras, it has also installed a mirror box and an optical viewfinder – more on the difference between DSLR and DSLM can be found below.

As a somewhat more robust and usually larger SLR, the D7500 is particularly suitable for outdoor and nature photographers. But the camera can also convince in other areas. Thanks to low image noise, a minimum shutter speed of 1/8,000 seconds and very fast auto focus, it is also ideal for sports and action shots.

In size, handling and image quality it is very similar to the Panasonic Lumix DC-G9 except for the mirror box. Although the D7500 can also shoot 4K videos, DSLR-typical, a stabilized sensor is missing. A clear advantage of the Nikon D7500 is its F bayonet. The manufacturer has been relying on this for several decades, which is why countless lenses from different manufacturers are available for the D7500. From analog lenses with vintage charm to modern and stabilized zoom optics – there should be something for everyone here.

So if you don’t mind the size of the camera and you don’t necessarily need a mirrorless system camera, you can go for the Nikon D7500. Because at just under 800 euros, it is slightly cheaper than DSLMs with similar image quality and features.

5. Canon EOS 90D: The Megapixel King

Powerful 32 megapixels, rapid serial image speed and impressive image quality: the EOS 90D is an all-round DSLR.

Price: approx. 1,329 euros


  • Huge resolution of 32 megapixels
  • Robust construction
  • Tilting and swiveling display


  • Relative expensive
  • Unwieldy in comparison to DSLMs
  • Not splashproof

The still quite new Canon EOS 90D also comes from the DSLR warehouse. It is a little more expensive at a good 1,000 euros, but with a whopping 32 megapixels it has the best resolution in our buying advice. Even if that sounds like a lot – and definitely is – you shouldn’t be blinded by it. Because for normal use, up to 24 megapixels are usually sufficient. However, if you want to print your pictures in large format or cut them generously in post-processing, the Canon is ideal for you.

It is also interesting for action and sports photographers with a serial image speed of 10 frames per second. Apart from the resolution and the frame rate, the 90D plays in about the same league as the Nikon 7500, which is about 200 euros cheaper. So if you don’t necessarily need a very high resolution, you should go for the cheaper Nikon.

The Canon EOS 90D is particularly impressive with its powerful 32 megapixels. Source: Canon

6. Panasonic Lumix DMC GX-80: good quality-price ratio

First-class image quality, fast auto focus and a built-in stabilizer make the GX-80 the ideal camera for on the go.

Price: approx. 419 euros

Panasonic Lumix GX80


  • Low price
  • Compact size
  • Many beginner-friendly programs


  • Relatively small MFT sensor
  • No micro and headphone connections
  • Weak battery performance

If you are looking for a little more money or are completely new to the world of photography, you should take a look at the Panasonic Lumix DMC GX-80 – it leaves all other models far behind in terms of price-performance. For less than 450 euros, photographers can get a compact DSLM here, which in no way has to hide behind the other models of our buying advice. First-class image quality, fast auto focus and a built-in stabilizer make the GX-80 the ideal camera for on the go.

But of course, at such a price, you also have to do without a few gimmicks: For example, the Panasonic has no connections for microphone and headphones, and the battery performance is a bit weak with just 500 triggers per charge. It offers 57 creative modes, such as miniature effects or sepia, and 25 different scene programs that are especially fun for beginners. The Panasonic Lumix DMC GX-80 is therefore most suitable for beginners who want to take the occasional nice memory snapshot.

7. Nikon Z6: full-frame camera at a professional level

Nikon Z6 is a full-frame DSLM at a professional level that hardly fails in the test.

Price: approx. 1,699 euros

Nikon Z6 review image 1


  • Full-frame sensor with outstanding image quality
  • Professional-level video features
  • Top price-performance


  • Unusual card format XQD
  • No second card slot
  • Only a few lenses without adapter

Even if the Nikon Z6 is not an APS-C, but a full-frame DSLM (and is therefore outside of our test grid), we don’t want to leave it unmentioned here. Because if you couldn’t do much with the models mentioned above, or if image quality is even more important to you, you won’t be able to avoid a full-frame camera. The larger sensor is clearly noticeable compared to APS-C cameras:

  • Better picture quality
  • Low-noise low-light images
  • Larger wide-angle range
  • Greater background blur – also called bokeh

Features like these make full-frame cameras the first choice for professional photographers. And this is exactly where the Z6 comes in. For whom the automatic mode is nothing more than a gimmick and who wants complete control over all setting options, Nikon’s full-frame DSLM is definitely something for them. In addition, the Nikon has recently dropped in price to such an extent that it has now become attractive for ambitious amateur photographers with around 1,500 euros. 4K video, 10-bit via HDMI, the strong image stabilizer and connections for headphones and microphone make them more than fit for moving images in the professional sector.

The Nikon does not have a classic F, but the new Z bayonet, in which the lens selection is still quite manageable, but the manufacturer does provide an adapter for this. Even the exotic XQD card format – instead of the usual SD – could deter buyers. Otherwise, the Z6 is a full-frame DSLM at professional level, which is almost unrivaled for the current price.

Why you can trust our test

Our buying advice is based on our editorial assessment, personal experience in photography and of course on our test procedure.
The latter is divided into the following sections:

  • Image quality 45%
  • Facilities 40%
  • Speed ​​15%

When testing digital cameras, image quality is the most important factor. These include resolution, image noise and dynamic range, i.e. how well the camera can display light and dark areas at the same time. We generally take test shots at different ISO values ​​- in the case of cameras with a lens even at maximum telephoto and wide-angle settings.

In second place is the equipment of the respective camera. Overall, we measure almost 200 features per camera and evaluate their quality. These include the lens, display and viewfinder, but of course the video functions due to the increasing demand for moving images. Added to this is how compact a camera is and its battery performance.

Last but not least, we look at the speed of a camera – we pay particular attention to delay times. How long does it take from pressing the shutter button to the captured image? How fast does the picture focus? How many frames per second can the camera take and for how long?

How much do I have to spend on a DSLM or DSLR?

In fact – especially as a beginner – you don’t have to spend too much money on a solid DSLR or DSLM. In other words: there is the right camera for almost every budget, of course all with certain advantages, but unfortunately also disadvantages. In principle, every camera works the same – in principle, there are significant differences that come at a cost only in terms of workmanship, image quality, auto focus, serial image and features.

  • The bloody beginner
    For those who are new to photography, the ideal entry-level camera can be found from around 300 euros. Since most accessories and lenses are manufacturer-specific, you should carefully consider which one you choose. Once you have enjoyed photography and bought several lenses, flashes and batteries, changing the system can be very expensive. So it’s best to take the cameras of the different manufacturers in your hand and think about which one is the best for you. Our tip: Older models in particular are usually cheap. If you get a model that already has a successor, you can often save several hundred euros.
  • The ambitious amateur photographer
    Those who are no longer new to photography will find the right model between 500 and 1,500 euros. The price gap is getting a bit wider here, so you should take a closer look at what you are going to do with your camera. If you photograph a lot of sport and action, you need a fast serial picture and a brisk auto focus. However, if you want to take portraits in daylight, not necessarily. It depends more on the image quality of the camera and a good lens. If you travel a lot and also want to take pictures in dim light, you should make sure that there is little noise even at high ISO values. What you should definitely consider when buying: Especially in this price segment, you don’t get an egg-laying wool milk sow – so you should accept certain drawbacks.
  • The full professional
    If you have been taking photos for many years and would like to get the first professional camera, you can find the right device from 1,500 euros. There is virtually no upper limit in the professional segment. For high-end, five-digit prices are often due. But if you want a professional tool, you should definitely buy a full-frame camera – for example the Nikon Z6 mentioned above. Due to the much larger sensor, images not only benefit from better image quality, but also from greater background blur, but also better noise behavior. Most cameras in the price league are also made more robust, which makes them real tools.

The difference between DSLR and DSLM cameras

Practically – and above all simply explained – DSLRs and DSLMs differ only in that SLR cameras (DSLR) have an optical viewfinder and mirrorless (DSLM) digital ones.

But there is more to it – technically speaking, the difference becomes even clearer: In SLR cameras, the subject is redirected via a small mirror in the camera housing and directed into the viewfinder. As a result, photographers who see through the viewfinder see a “real” picture. The motif is not redirected for mirrorless ones. Instead, the light continuously falls on the sensor, which transfers the image to a small display in the viewfinder. This has advantages, but also disadvantages.

  • Advantages of DSLMs
    The most striking advantage of a mirrorless camera is its compact design. Because no mirror box is necessary in the housing, mirrorless ones are usually a bit smaller. In addition, the digital viewfinder – also EVF for “Electronic Viewfinder” – can show what the finished image will look like before it is triggered. Most EVFs can also show additional information about exposure, focus method, white balance, etc. In addition, much more can be seen on a digital viewfinder in a dark environment than on an optical one.
  • Advantages of DSLRs
    The question arises, why then an optical viewfinder at all? First and foremost, it’s a matter of getting used to. Many and especially long-time photographers swear by an optical viewfinder because they don’t want to look at a display. However, EVFs have gotten better and better in recent years and problems like poor resolution or a jerky picture are now history.

    The fact that DSLRs have better autofocus is now only partially true – in other words: DSLMs are getting better and better and can definitely keep up with DSLRs today. However, DSLRs are more robust – on the one hand because of their more massive construction, and on the other hand because the sensor is always protected by the mirror. For example, less dirt gets onto the sensor when changing the lens. This can quickly become annoying, since dirt is noticeable through dark spots on the picture when taking pictures with the shutter closed – at the latest, the sensor has to be cleaned, which usually costs at least 50 euros.

What to look for when buying?

If you want to buy a new camera, you should first ask yourself what you need it for – and above all how high the respective budget is. As already mentioned – apart from the professional segment, all cameras come with advantages and disadvantages.

So you should think carefully about what you want to do with your camera. If you need a compact housing, speed is the most important thing. Or do you just rely on image quality? Once you have decided that, you should definitely look at the respective models from different manufacturers. These differ immensely, especially in terms of handling and key assignment. Taking pictures is definitely not fun if you simply cannot handle your device. Therefore: In any case, take it in your hand before buying! Is the camera comfortable in your hand? Can I reach all of the dials and knobs? Does the camera have a viewfinder or just a display? Can the display be swiveled?

What you definitely shouldn’t care about is the resolution. Large manufacturers like to boast with values ​​such as 32 megapixels. Don’t let that fool you. For example, you only need 2 megapixels for a print in 10x15cm. 24 megapixels are enough for a lossless print of approximately 33×50 cm – that should be big enough, right? Another disadvantage of high resolution is that the pixel density is too low. If too many pixels have to be accommodated on a sensor that is too small – such as a 1-inch one – the image quality will visibly suffer. Less detail and more noise are usually the result.

If there is a lens with the camera, don’t let a large zoom blind you either. Zoom lenses such as an 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6 cover a large area, but are not particularly bright. A large zoom lens is useful if you don’t want to carry too much equipment with you, but it will reach its limits in the early evening hours at the latest.

  • The light intensity of a lens can be recognized by the f-number, for example f/3.5. Smaller numbers, such as f/1.8, are better here – on the one hand because they get more light onto the sensor and thus produce low-noise photos, and on the other hand because a large aperture means more background blur.

When is a cell phone enough?

The best camera is the one you have with you – isn’t my cell phone enough that I always wear it anyway? Well, cell phone cameras are actually getting better, but still can’t get DSLRs and DSLMs when it comes to image quality. But cell phones actually have advantages.

  • In contrast to real cameras, cell phones are tiny and you can always take them with you – ideal for on the go
  • You are always connected to the internet. Ideal for quickly sharing photos and videos with friends

“Real” cameras are not quite as handy, but they are ahead in many respects.

  • They usually have a much better picture quality
  • Many cell phones have only one automatic mode – DSLRs and DSLMs offer many manual modes and much more creative design options
  • With the right lens, cameras have a larger focal length range – meaning significantly more zoom.

Choosing a cell phone vs. a camera simply depends on your own requirements. The cell phone may be enough for the occasional selfie or souvenir photo, but if you value quality, you can’t avoid a real camera. DSLRs and DSLMs are still ahead. In addition, many camera models can be connected to the cell phone – this way, the photos can also be shared on social media. If you do not take photos so often and are looking for a cheap compromise, a compact camera can also be the right one for you.

Which camera for beginners?

Especially as a beginner, you naturally ask yourself which camera should be the first. Even if it is of course difficult to answer this question in general, the same things are usually important for beginners.

So the first camera shouldn’t be too expensive . Because you still don’t know how long you can enjoy your new hobby. In addition, clear and simple operation is important. There are also intelligent automatic modes/scene detection and editing in the camera are always useful. Inexpensive cameras often have all of these features because manufacturers want to use them to target newcomers to photography.

Our top recommendation here is the Panasonic Lumix DMC GX-80 . The combination of low price, strong automation, creative modes and easy handling makes it the ideal entry-level model. But other manufacturers are also launching strong entry-level models.

In addition to the criteria mentioned above, a lens should also be included in the scope of delivery. These kit lenses usually cover a wide range of focal lengths from wide-angle to telephoto – at the expense of image quality. Nonetheless, exactly those lenses are ideal for beginners who have mostly not yet committed themselves to a specific area in photography. A fast prime lens, such as a 50mm f/1.8, can still be acquired at a later date.

Which camera for professional photos?

Sure, every photographer – especially beginners – dreams of professional photos. But here you should never assume that a better – and therefore a more expensive – camera will make a huge difference. Strong pictures are created in good light, creative ideas and by mastering the technical aspects and settings of the camera – no matter which camera you use. A professional photographer with years of experience will definitely be able to conjure up more impressive pictures with a smartphone than a beginner with high-end equipment.

Before you buy a full-frame SLR in the middle four-digit price range, you should consider carefully whether you really need it. However, if you already have this experience and are already maxing out your old snaps, you can get the first professional camera.

Once you have dealt with the high-end devices of photography, you always come across a term: full format . This means the sensor size of the camera. For comparison, a 1-inch sensor, such as that used in many compact cameras, is approximately 13x9mm in size. A full-frame sensor, however, comes to around 36x24mm – that is more than seven times the size.

For professional photographers: The Nikon Z6. Source: Nikon

But what does that have to do with image quality? Simply put: the larger the sensor, the more space the individual pixels have and therefore they get enough light, i.e. the camera takes more detailed pictures.

But not only the sensor is better with full-frame cameras. As a rule, you benefit from a brighter and more precise autofocus, a faster series image and, overall, better equipment.

And that costs. New full-frame DSLRs and DSLMs start at around 2,000 euros – without a lens. There is no limit to the price. They are therefore completely unsuitable for beginners. Such a camera requires that you already have some high quality lenses. Because a professional camera is of no use if there is poorly made glass in front of it.

Our price tip for everyone who still wants to buy a – reasonably priced – full-frame camera is the Nikon Z6 . The still relatively new mirrorless professional camera for just under 1,500 euros offers everything that makes the professional heart beat faster.

However, there is criticism: On the one hand, Nikon is installing a new bayonet for which the lens selection is still very manageable. To use Nikon F lenses, photographers need an adapter. Nikon does deliver this in some sets, but it makes the lens a good two centimeters longer – compact is different. Nikon also uses card slots for the XQD card format in the Z series. And unfortunately these cards are quite expensive. 

What equipment do I need for DLSR & DSLM?

Anyone who buys a DSLR or DSLM should definitely think about the necessary equipment and the associated costs. Lenses, flash units, removable batteries, memory cards, bags, lens filters, tripods, gimbals, microphones – the possibilities are almost limitless. Even if a beginner does not need the entire range right away, three things are particularly important.

  • The right lens
    One of the biggest advantages of SLR and mirrorless system cameras is the possibility to use different optics. Kit lenses, such as those offered in many camera models, are often the first choice. As a rule, these are zoom lenses that cover a wide range of focal lengths. They are ideal for beginners and as a travel setup, as they allow a variety of motifs to be photographed wonderfully.
    However, this also has its disadvantages – especially when it comes to image quality. With such lenses, the sharpness sometimes drops sharply towards the edge, they do not have too large an open aperture and the images have vignetting. This is not a problem at the beginning, but if you want to deal with photography for a longer time, you will notice that there is no lens with which everything can be photographed beautifully. We need a new look. Here we recommend a cheap 50mm f/1.8 . This is offered by almost all manufacturers and is often the cheapest fast prime lens. With this so-called normal focal length, you logically do without the zoom, but you get low-noise images in dark surroundings and a nice blur in the background.
  • Sufficient memory cards Experience has shown
    that you can never have enough of them. Most cameras use SD cards for this, but there are exceptions. Therefore, you should always find out in advance which camera saves which card format. Other more or less common storage media are Micro-SD, Compact Flash and XQD.
    One should not be impressed by the size, but rather pay attention to the speed. For long continuous shooting in RAW format and high-resolution video, fast cards are definitely needed.
    We recommend the so-called U3 standard, with a minimum write speed of 30 megabytes per second. It can also save 4K videos. And even if 256 GB initially sounds like a lot – and is – it is generally not advisable to use such cards. For one thing, most amateur photographers will never need more than 64 GB. A small calculation example: When taking RAW photos of 30 MB each, more than 2,000 pictures fit on a 64 GB SD. With JPEGs of 7 MB each, this corresponds to almost 10,000 images. As long as you don’t shoot in the continuous series picture, this should also be enough for a holiday of several weeks.
    The second reason for smaller memory cards is that SDs in particular tend to fail. This means that data can be lost due to incorrect handling or simply due to their fragile design. It is advisable to bet on several small cards, as this minimizes the risk.
  • Enough exchangeable
    batteries One shouldn’t do without several batteries either. There are two things that matter: how much you take pictures and how long the battery lasts. You can find information on how many triggers a camera battery can handle before it runs out of steam in our detailed test reports.
    Usually two batteries are sufficient at the beginning. So you can always load one while the other is used in the camera. We do not recommend cheaper replicas or no-name batteries, since they cannot keep up with the originals of the manufacturers.


  • Resolution – the effective number of pixels on a sensor, e.g. 4,000 x 6,000 pixels = 24 megapixels
  • ISO – the light sensitivity of a sensor, large numbers mean brighter images, but also more image noise, also called grain
  • APS-C – designation for sensor sizes of 24 x 16 millimeters. Compared to full format, the effective focal length of lenses is extended by a factor of around 1.5
  • Micro Four Thirds – term for sensor sizes slightly smaller than APS-C. Effective double focal length extension compared to full frame
  • Bayonet connector for the lens
  • Focal length – indicates the optical magnification of a lens or how much a lens “zooms”. 50 millimeters is the normal range, including wide-angle, tele above
  • Noise – loss of quality of a recording due to a high ISO, for example. Images appear less detailed and colors are not reproduced lifelike
  • Full format – designation for sensor sizes with 24 x 36 millimeters. Focal lengths of lenses are usually given in relation to their image on full-frame sensors
  • Dynamic range – Maximum difference in brightness that a camera can record. If the dynamic range is too small, bright areas are overexposed or dark areas are underexposed
  • Telephoto Lenses – Lenses with a focal length that is longer than 60 millimeters (in full format)
  • Wide-angle lens – lenses with a focal length that is shorter than 40 millimeters (in full format)
  • EVF – “Electronic Viewfinder”, in German digital viewfinder, in which the camera does not steer the image through a viewfinder, but shows it on a small display

The most important questions about DSLMs & DSLRs

How expensive is a good SLR camera?

In fact – especially as a beginner – you don’t have to spend too much money on a solid DSLR or DSLM. In other words: there is the right camera for almost every budget, of course all with certain advantages, but unfortunately also disadvantages – even under 1,000 euros. In principle, every camera works the same – there are only significant differences in terms of money in terms of workmanship, image quality, auto focus, serial image and features.

What is the difference between DSLR and DSLM?

Practically – and above all simply explained – DSLRs and DSLMs differ only in the fact that SLR (DSLR) has an optical viewfinder and mirrorless (DSLM) a digital one.

But there is more to it – technically speaking, the difference becomes even clearer: In SLR cameras, the subject is redirected via a small mirror in the camera housing and directed into the viewfinder. As a result, photographers who see through the viewfinder see a “real” picture. The motif is not redirected for mirrorless ones. Instead, the light continuously falls on the sensor, which transfers the image to a small display in the viewfinder.

Which SLR camera for beginners?

Our top recommendation here is the Panasonic Lumix DMC GX-80 . The combination of low price, strong automation, creative modes and easy handling makes it the ideal entry-level model. But other manufacturers are also launching strong entry-level models.

Which camera for professional photos?

Our price tip for everyone who still wants to buy a – reasonably priced – full-frame camera is the Nikon Z6 . The still relatively new mirrorless professional camera for just under 1,500 euros offers everything that makes the professional heart beat faster.

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